Boquete

Another travel day today. Up at 5 to get to the 6 am ferry back to golfito. It's funny how even after taking the route once, it's all so much easier. The minibus system en route to David didn't seem nearly as hectic this time. I love the 2 man system they have. One guy driving, one guy working the side door searching for passengers flagging the bus down from the side of the road and collecting money as people exited the bus. For all the money we have, it's a little crappy to think that panama has a better system for rural public transit that works in a cheap, fairly efficient manor. You can more or less get to any reasonable sized town by simply getting to the main road and flagging one of the 30 passenger buses down. There are designated stops as well, and points that the guy seemed to linger a little as though it were a good chance to get more passengers at that point. Again, once we know what we were doing, it is an efficient means to travel and only 2$ for a fairly long ride.

The bus terminal in David is bustling. Lots of destinations to the region as well as long distance places as well. We found the boquete bus no problem (a school bus!) and we quickly on the last leg of the journey.

Boquete is a mountain town. Maybe elevation 3600 but towering mountains on most sides. It has a cool central square that our hotel is on (see crummy iPad picture) and is pretty condensed. Lots of expats running around here. Disappointing to chat with one of our hostel hosts and learn that some are very interesting in integrating, but many don't even bother learning Spanish or interacting at all. The hostel is great. An older building, well kept up and in a great location.

It is much cooler here as well. The first day of the trip that either one of us want to wear long sleeves. We napped a bit, and I had a good run (albeit up hill into the wind) and we had a really good dinner of various Panaminian fare at the place right next door to our hostel. Looking are doing a coffee tour and a hike to a waterfall with possibility of spotting a quetzal tomorrow. I was playing the call in the room tonight so we know what to listen for.

Today was a bum around town kind of day. I was up at 630 for a little run, the best of the trip, down a small gravel road out of town. Kate "slept in" until I got back, maybe 7:45 and after a quick shower, we headed down town for some coffee.

Breakfast was eaten by the pool- bananas and mangos with yogurt and Costa Rican granola that was actually fabulous. We took our sweet time, then borrowed a couple bikes bound for the beach a few miles away. Iguana beach (note the picture) wasn't much for swimming- there's a huge undertow, but it delivered what it said it would and offered some good views as well.

We scooted off with the approaching rain and a happy hour / cribbage in the room waiting. Dinner was low key at an Italian palace in town. Actually really good food- they are from Italy, but have lived here for  years. Probably an interesting story there. A good day of rest. Off to panama for some more adventures tomorrow.

Delivering on its name

Me struggling with the one speed down the dirt road.
 Photo credit: the only other person on this trip

Corcovado

Woke up around 4:45 Saturday morning to meet me our guide at the panaderia. "Oscar" was there, a soft spoken Costa Rican not much taller than Kate. We got a pastry (still not their forte) and a coffee and were on the road to carate by 530. Things happen early here.

It's a gravel road to the jump off point for the park. The public bust can take over two hours, but we had coordinated a private transfer, much fast, but still a bumpy hour and half. Carate isn't much. A small store on a dead end road with perhaps 50 people in town- all related to hospitality business. We saddled up our packs and were on our way.

The path actually wasn't too bad. Fairly flat, through the jungle. The beach parts of the hike were probably the hardest. Looses sand is incredibly hard to walk on. The views were outstanding. Steep hills of jungle on one side, endless ocean on the other. It made you feel like you were on a survivor episode.

Oscar was a phenomenal guide. Over 14 years of experience had him checking under leaves for bats, hearing bird calls and searching for any number of species, and smelling an anteater nearby. The fauna did not disappoint. Monkeys, and lots of them, them weren't even a surprise after a while,  I had to keep reminding myself to soak it up. Not many chances to experience that in you life. Kate and I agreed that after all the wildlife we saw the best was a moment when a curious spider monkey was hanging directly above us, by one arm, then a tail, maybe 25 feet up. A thought he might fall and try to steal our stuff, but he was simply looking. All in all, we saw all 4 species of monkey: howler, spider, white faced, and squirrel and I tried not to take a single experience for granted.

Monkeys were only a small part. Coati (related to raccoons) were easy to find and not very afraid of humans. We might have gotten 10 feet from one. We also saw both species of peccary (Costa Ricas answer to Pumba from the lion king); on which made our guide excited and nervous as I guess they are hard to spot but also might charge humans if provoked and another that is much more docile. I guess the more aggressive ones can even kill Pumas if they get caught in the wrong place!

We were super lucky to spot tapers three different times as well. They are nocturnal, but Oscar knew many hangout spots where they'd bed down during the day.

Many birds, but hard to remember all of them. The guan and curassow were sweet, and a guide at the lodge spotted a crested owl.

Wildlife aside, the walk was a long one by the end. 12.5 miles or so was a little long than I expected, super impressed that Kate made it without a problem. Not maybe people are willing do do that kind of trek.

The sirena ranger station was a little underwhelming which didn't quite make a great end to a long hike, but we made due. It's back in the sticks, only obtained by hiking, boat, or plane. I expected rustic, but there were holes in many screens, and in general didn't seem super well kept up. On top of that, there was a miscommunication between the guide and the guy we organized with, leaving us initially without cooking fuel, sheets, or mosquito nets. Oscar came through though and it ended up all right. We didn't bring anything for leisure so posted dinner was kicking back on the adirondack chairs and take in the night noises in the jungle.

Another early wakeup this morning. We were on the trail by 515. There is one spot on the beach that much be crossed closer to low tide or it is in passable. The cliff at that point is at the shore as well, leaving that as the only option. We needed to cross by around 9 or early this morning, hence leaving with the rising sun.

We beat it, and took our sweet time back to carate. The ride arrived at 115 and by 3 we were saying our goodbyes and bound for the grocery store to pick up some beer and wine to relax and celebrate.

A heck of a trip.

Just the view from our hotel room. No big deal.

Today was another travel day. Up around 5, bound for the airport. The flight to David was rather uneventful. Actually a pretty big flight considering David is 100000ish people. 3 rows on either side. The David airport reminded me a lot of luang probang in Laos. We were just about to touch down and your looking down thinking where the hell are we going to land, there's nothing but trees here.

A kind of crummy ride into town with another cabbie insistent on ripping us off. Then to say that random bus stop he said would be faster than going to the bus station. The problem being you had no idea where any of the mini buses were headed (we eventually learned that they had the final stop plastered on the front windshield, although as ours wasn't the last stop, it wasn't much help). Kate went to work again, talked to a lady, who told us it would come. Which was great, until Kate decided to use the bathroom in the McDonald's and I was alone with th bags when the bus came. The lady was boarding on a different bus, but I asked the guy and he confirmed, paso Coneas, the border town. I was prepared to miss it, when Kate came running on, we hopped in, and were on our way.

Dumped off at the "frontera" a vocab word I actually know, and started the adventure of the border crossing. Exiting panama was easy, as was entering Costa Rica 100 meters down the dusty street. Not much in lieu of security, we probably could have just kept walking. The bus stop was also an easy find and we were lucky to have a quick turn around to a departing bus. Another 2ish dollars later (some 4000 calones!) and the Costa Rican country side was whizzing by us on our way to the coast.

An elderly later overheard my practicing the word for small pier and asked if we were headed to puerto Jimenez, indeed we were. She ended up being super friendly and showed us where to get off in golfito for the (poorly marked) ferry.

Our hotel here is amazing. On the bay, nice rooms, very accomadating staff. The town has a great atmosphere too. Quiet, with a sprinkle of tourists. We had a good, large, late lunch of Costa Rican typicas, shopped at the grocery store for tomorrow, and met our guide. He had in mind exactly what I envisioned when I read about the tours online, so hopefully it was works out. Off to Corcovado!

Day 2 in the city

Got up for another muggy run along the cinta costera again. It's a nice path, right on the water with great views of the skyline. Further from downtown, they made a causeway that loops maybe a half mile out into the water around the old town. 

Breakfast was coffee, a smoothie, and some kind of pastry. Generally good, though bread really isn't Latin Americas wheelhouse. We took a cab out to the city park today a little out of downtown. Really nice, lots of forest. It was a bit sweaty, but we managed a 2.5 mile hike with lots of bird sightings (few identified), leaf cutting ants, turtles, and lizards. No sloths or monkeys though.

We had planned to cab directly to the Panama City ruins (circa 1520) but the cabbie was giving a shit price so we just went back to the hostel. Cabs in general are a headache here. No meter, just agreed upon prices, supposedly standardized by "zones", but you don't really know what zones are where and they are constantly trying to screw you.

Post lunch, we chanced the bus. You need a metro card ,which we didn't have, but heard you can simply ask a person to swipe for you and pay them instead. We (Kate) had a little trouble asking at the stop, as the bus came soon after we got there. I'm always worthless in these situations, so I wasn't any help. The bus driver just had us get on without paying. Very generous, although I think the fare is only a quarter. Very crowded, albeit free bus, but in 15 min or so plus more of Kate saving the day by asking how we'd know when the stop was, we arrived, saving 7$ perhaps. 

The ruins were about what you'd expect. That said, they are a world heritage sight and it was cool to place yourself on the edge of this mudflat ,looking out at the Pacific Ocean and imaging what life was life for the first European settlement this side of either continent. They had renovated the bell tower of the old cathedral too- great view for the city and surrounding area.

Dinner was a modern restaurant in casco Viejo- the old colonial city. A lot like the French quarter, though still very much in the works of renovation. A fine time in Panama City, but I think we're both ready to move on to bigger things.

Got in around 930 last night after an uneventful set of plane rides. Very nice to not have a time change. We haven't really felt to much jet lag. The airport is maybe 30 min from the city. We cabbed it in, in the dark. I was even starting to get paranoid like where is this guy taking us. All of a sudden, you are crossing a marshy area and tons of lit up high-rises dot the sky line. Almost futuristic looking.

I was still pretty hungry after a hodgepodge of sandwiches throughout the day, so we talked to the hostel host and found a street stall close by. Absolutely amazing arepas. Andy would have been proud.

Got up early this morning in attempt to get the run out of the way. The cinta costera, a large promenade on the water is less than a mile away so that will be the route the next few days. Actually not horrible on the water. Definitely better than Thailand. Still muggy though. That didn't seem to borrow the dude I saw out jogging in a sweatshirt and tights. I guess I also ended up racing a guy. I was on my way back and he was stopped but started running next to me and matched pace. I just kept running my slogging pace thinking he'd slow down, but I got the vibe he was testing the waters a little so I picked it up just a bit. He actually went with for a while. Funny how you can be dieing in the heat and a little thing like that can put you floating again, if only for a little while.

Breakfast was a fruit smoothie from a stand. Absolutely amazing. I feel like I'm never let down by these when I'm traveling. We strolled casca Viejo in the morning, culminating with ceviche for lunch at the fish market. From there, we caught a cab to the locks. Expensive and a bit underwhelming, but something I suppose we should visit while here.

Dinner was at la caribe. A hair pricy for panama, but solid food. We took in a basketball  game at a park nearby after dinner then capped off the night with chirrros. A fine first day of vacation.