Woke up around 4:45 Saturday morning to meet me our guide at the panaderia. "Oscar" was there, a soft spoken Costa Rican not much taller than Kate. We got a pastry (still not their forte) and a coffee and were on the road to carate by 530. Things happen early here.
It's a gravel road to the jump off point for the park. The public bust can take over two hours, but we had coordinated a private transfer, much fast, but still a bumpy hour and half. Carate isn't much. A small store on a dead end road with perhaps 50 people in town- all related to hospitality business. We saddled up our packs and were on our way.
The path actually wasn't too bad. Fairly flat, through the jungle. The beach parts of the hike were probably the hardest. Looses sand is incredibly hard to walk on. The views were outstanding. Steep hills of jungle on one side, endless ocean on the other. It made you feel like you were on a survivor episode.
Oscar was a phenomenal guide. Over 14 years of experience had him checking under leaves for bats, hearing bird calls and searching for any number of species, and smelling an anteater nearby. The fauna did not disappoint. Monkeys, and lots of them, them weren't even a surprise after a while, I had to keep reminding myself to soak it up. Not many chances to experience that in you life. Kate and I agreed that after all the wildlife we saw the best was a moment when a curious spider monkey was hanging directly above us, by one arm, then a tail, maybe 25 feet up. A thought he might fall and try to steal our stuff, but he was simply looking. All in all, we saw all 4 species of monkey: howler, spider, white faced, and squirrel and I tried not to take a single experience for granted.
Monkeys were only a small part. Coati (related to raccoons) were easy to find and not very afraid of humans. We might have gotten 10 feet from one. We also saw both species of peccary (Costa Ricas answer to Pumba from the lion king); on which made our guide excited and nervous as I guess they are hard to spot but also might charge humans if provoked and another that is much more docile. I guess the more aggressive ones can even kill Pumas if they get caught in the wrong place!
We were super lucky to spot tapers three different times as well. They are nocturnal, but Oscar knew many hangout spots where they'd bed down during the day.
Many birds, but hard to remember all of them. The guan and curassow were sweet, and a guide at the lodge spotted a crested owl.
Wildlife aside, the walk was a long one by the end. 12.5 miles or so was a little long than I expected, super impressed that Kate made it without a problem. Not maybe people are willing do do that kind of trek.
The sirena ranger station was a little underwhelming which didn't quite make a great end to a long hike, but we made due. It's back in the sticks, only obtained by hiking, boat, or plane. I expected rustic, but there were holes in many screens, and in general didn't seem super well kept up. On top of that, there was a miscommunication between the guide and the guy we organized with, leaving us initially without cooking fuel, sheets, or mosquito nets. Oscar came through though and it ended up all right. We didn't bring anything for leisure so posted dinner was kicking back on the adirondack chairs and take in the night noises in the jungle.
Another early wakeup this morning. We were on the trail by 515. There is one spot on the beach that much be crossed closer to low tide or it is in passable. The cliff at that point is at the shore as well, leaving that as the only option. We needed to cross by around 9 or early this morning, hence leaving with the rising sun.
We beat it, and took our sweet time back to carate. The ride arrived at 115 and by 3 we were saying our goodbyes and bound for the grocery store to pick up some beer and wine to relax and celebrate.
A heck of a trip.
Apologies on spelling. iPads are extremely hard to type on!
ReplyDeleteThis was thrilling to read! I am very envious of your wildlife sightings, especially the tapirs!!
ReplyDeleteThey are relatives of horses, I believe (perisodactyles).
ReplyDelete